DIY dye my IKEA sofa cover; here’s how I did it without a bath tub!

kivik-three-seat-sofa-bed__0108217_PE257918_S4As you will all know by now (since I won’t shut up about it!), we recently moved house. From a very spacious modern 4 bedroom flat we moved to a cute but oh so small one bedroom terrace house. A house with a front garden, a back garden and lots of character. Did I mention the house dates from 1911?  Bizarre to even really imagine what the world must have looked like at the time for those workmen who constructed this house all those years ago. The wars this house has lived through, all those to whom it provided a roof, the change in cars it has watched passing by through the years…I’m drifting off subject though.

I want to tell you about something very specific today; how I managed to completely customise a second hand IKEA sofa without spending a fortune;

by dyeing its cover!

When news of our impending move to a one bedroom house hit us, both James and me were completely on the same page about one thing: space should NOT be a reason NOT to have guests over. Lots of guests. Big guests. Small guests. Foreign guests, national guests, hell, even guests from outer space should they wish to have a sleep-over. Besides making guest sleeping arrangements a priority, we were also picky about the type of bed we would get. We didn’t want to resort to shopping channel inflatable beds or flimsy mattresses, we wanted a proper decent double guest bed with a mattress supported by bed slats. Without the space for a guest bed  it would have to be a good quality sofa bed. And so  the hunt for the perfect sofa bed commenced…

My research lead me to a specific IKEA sofa bed that had excellent reviews; considered to be the holy grail amongst sofa beds by some: I present to you… the IKEA KIVIK sofa bed.



The arm rests double as extra storage for duvets and pillows, the cover comes off to wash. (being able to wash the sofa cover is such a plus, since we’re often covered in diy dust and we’ve got bunny Parker hopping on and off the sofa)

The KIVIK sofa bed is supposed to be as comfortable to sleep in as a normal bed without diminishing its sofa-esque functions and vice versa. You don’t want the sofa cushions to slide away from underneath your bum every time you sit down just because of the sofa bed’s design. Sliding bum cushions during Netflix marathons… no thank you. So the KIVIK it was then. Only one problem: IKEA  stopped producing KIVIK sofa beds in 2015.

Excuse me, say what?

Yes. Our “space-saving- allowing-our-multinational-family-and-friends-to-comfortably-stay-over-in-our-tiny-house-solution” was DISCONTINUED.

Thank god for second hand shopping! I scoured Marktplaats (that’s the dutch version of gumtree / Craigs list)  and only a few days in I happened upon a snow white version not too far a drive from our house. After some messaging forth and back we agreed on a price and upon arrival we were pleasantly surprised by its mint condition. The lady who owned it had only used it as an extra sofa in her guest room, plus she was super clean and didn’t own any pets. She threw in a free extra hocker, which turned our supersofa into an even super-er corner sofa. Success!!!




supersofa all safely wrapped up amidst the chaos

Supersofa as we lovingly called her, was our first big purchase for the new house. Because of bad timing and the fact she was incredibly heavy to lift, supersofa ended up spending the next four weeks in the middle of our new living room. Wrapped in layers of plastic and placed on little castors she patiently stood there and witnessed all our weeks of demolishing, cleaning, wall plastering sessions, our painting sessions, and our laying the floors.

Eventually she was ready to be unwrapped. As we gently moved her over our newly layed floor and placed her against our freshly painted wall James and me both squintingly looked at each other and said; god, that sofa’s white! ‘Do you remember it being so white?’ ‘I don’t remember it being so white’. ‘That’s colour will not stay white in our household! Not even for a day!’.

And so we faced challenge # 10632 of the ‘new-small-house-project’:

how to change our sofa from eye blinding white to a more appropriate grey/ blue. We thought grey was a safe choice, not too dark because of the small house and not too light because of the stain proneness.

Since the KIVIK sofa bed was discontinued, I couldn’t count on IKEA to buy a new sofa cover. I looked into online companies who offer slipcovers for IKEA sofa’s in any fabric but I was so disappointed with their prices. I think it’s ridiculous how much some companies charge for a standard slipcover, I mean, it’s not even a custom design, they have the standard sizes on file so how much time could it really cost to make a cover if you have the proper machinery? We decided we needed to hold off buying a new cover until we had saved enough and so I started looking into a temporary solution:

dyeing the sofa cover.

I started researching methods of dyeing a big fabric item such as a sofa cover and came across this incredibly useful blogpost, written by Lizzie. I heard about washing machine dyes before, I think I’d even given that method a go sometime when I was in high school. I remembered it to be a bit of a pain in the ass to get any type of material dyed evenly, even when trying to dye small items of clothing. That’s why I was so thrilled to read about Lizzie’s excellent results with bath tub reactive dye. I was so excited to try this myself. I looked up the dye company Lizzie recommended and E-mailed them for some advice. I weighed all my fabric, converted the kilograms into lbs and ordered the dye. I have to say I was completely blown away by their delivery time. I received the parcel TWO DAYS after I ordered it. All the way from America to the Netherlands in two days and that was the normal delivery method. So far so good.

But the next challenge awaited.

Challenge # 10033 We don’t have a bath. You need a bath in order to dye a big piece of fabric in one go.

I don’t know anyone in my town well enough yet to ask them if I could borrow their bath for a night. And their bath wouldn’t be the only thing I’d need: the sofa cover would have to dry somewhere too.

I did however still have a ridiculously spacious and empty flat to my use for another few days… A big flat with a big shower room. Braincells gurgling and humming…. here’s what I came up with.

kiddie pool inflatable

Yep! I bought a kiddie pool! And no, I wasn’t gonna inflate the thing by mouth so I bought one of those electrical pumps with it too. I have to admit I somewhat misjudged the size of the pool and so in the end I had to fold the ‘bath’ in half as it didn’t actually fit in my bathroom:-) Achherm..

had to fold it in half

The dye preparation. What I needed according to the Dharma trading website:

Fiber Reactive DyeSoda Ash, Non-Iodized Salt, Urea (optional), Calsolene Oil (optional), Synthrapol or Dharma Professional Textile Detergent (PTD)Milsoft (optional), a bucket large enough for your item to move around in or a top loading washing machine.

Any of the ingredients that were listed as optional, I did not get. I didn’t know where to get them locally and getting them sent from abroad wasn’t really an option, given the weight of my fabric.  One of the most difficult things of it all I found to be the maths part. I’m not very good with numbers as it is, having never heard about American quantities before sure added to my incompetence. I never knew there were different types of pounds and a gallon to me sounded like a character straight out of a Tolkien book. I know that sounds ridiculous but that’s how bad I am with numbers. However… I managed to get there in the end.

I needed a lo-hot more salt than I expected (did the salt calculations very last minute) and therefore had to run to the supermarket to get some just before closing time. The only suitable non-iodised salt I could find in my supermarket was the salt that you’re supposed to put in dish washers. I knew you couldn’t just use normal table salt , it has  something to do with the water PH value. Dishwasher salt would surely do for that exact reason I figured, the only problem was: the dishwasher salt came in very coarse crystals. I tried several ways but didn’t manage to dissolve the salt, I tried to help the dissolving process by adding boiling water, grinding it with metal spoons, both methods  failed. In the end I just used the salt crystals in their full coarse glory. Besides hanging out on the bottom of the pool and tickling my feet the rocks didn’t interfere with the outcome of the dyeing process.


Challenge # 15242637289: Soda ash, anyone?

I read about soda ash in Lizzie’s tutorial and the manual that came with the dye mentioned it too. I couldn’t find a Dutch supplier of the stuff and since I didn’t want to pay a fortune for having it delivered from abroad I needed to find a solution. This youtube video was the answer to my soda ash prayers.  Basically, there is a way to make your own soda ash in the oven. All you need is baking soda, which is affordable and widely available. It saved me a ton of money and effort; baking soda is so cheap and turning the oven on is hardly rocket science.

One tip: when you try to turn baking soda into soda ash in the oven and you’re not sure how long to put it in for: take the baking tray out and hold it up to the light. When your baking soda starts to lose its shimmer and has turned completely matte (stir it once in a while) then you’re good to go.

The instructions that came with the Dharma reactive dye were pretty straight forward. To dissolve the dye it said: Paste up the Fiber Reactive Dye with some warm water, smashing it with a spoon, like making gravy. Next, add about a cup of warm water (more if you are dissolving lots of dye, like with black) to the dye paste to make a well dissolved slurry. Finally, add to the tub or bucket and stir to mix evenly.IMG_7528

So that’s what I did. Also: don’t forget to wash your fabric before you start the dyeing process. Make sure it’s still wet. Apparently even greasy fingerprints can make for blotchy stains after the dyeing process.

Time to add the paste to my folded in half inflatable pool with carefully measured water…


With the help of two broomsticks and my muscles I sent the next hour stirring, swishing, swooshing and moving around. I read about the fabric having to be in motion at all times to get an even result.

After a while the fabric (and my feet and hands) started to change colour…

IMG_7560 IMG_7585 IMG_7561

Then I used the shower to rinse everything.rinse IMG_7601

Yes, I used a shopping trolley to help me get the job done. The fabric was so heavy and there was so much of it, I thought it would be a good solution. I know you’re not supposed to take supermarket trolleys home but I did give the trolley a free wash in return which cleared my conscience.IMG_7600 IMG_7603After a night’s dry in a bathroom with the radiators on full blast, this was the result…

dye fabric sofa cover

A nice hue of grey/blueish but still a bit too wet

In the meantime, our stripped down little sofa was waiting patiently at our new house.
IMG_7606 IMG_7607And now for THE BIG REVEAL… drumroll please…  some close-ups:


some blotchiness around where I folded it to dry but nothing too bad. I have to say I quite like the 90’s faded jeans look.


And an overview.
IMG_8266 IMG_8306

My conclusion:

-if you don’t have the money but you do have the time, elbow grease and perseverance, I can definitely RECOMMEND dying your sofa cover. Especially if, like us, you have a bright white version, since that will be the easiest version to dye and get the desired results.

-you need space to do this. A lot of space. Not only because you’ll want to dye all of your fabric at once to avoid colour differences, you will also need space to dry the cover afterwards. In hindsight I think I underestimated the size of this project, I was lucky to have such a massive space to use.

-Buy enough salt. So you don’t have to run to the supermarket to get dishwasher salts. They could have really messed up the dyeing process.

-Do your maths. Gallons, pounds, you don’t want to get them wrong.

-If you own an oven, make your own soda ash. It saves so much money and it’s too easy not to do.

-You don’t necessarily need Urea or Calsolene oil. My sofa is proof.

-Ask a friend for help, it’s a pretty tiring process to keep the fabric in the water stirred at all times, it was a relief being able to take turns at stirring. And the whole process being more fun when you’re together is an added bonus.

I am thrilled with the results. I’d love to hear about other people’s sofa dyeing attempts, please leave your comments below!


Old belt turns into new shelf feature

Happy new year everyone!

I don’t know about you, but the start of a new year always awakens  my urge to slim down my belongings. Some people start the year full of good intentions to quit smoking or they go on a diet or cleanse; I want to start tidying the house. So the first three days of 2017 I spent getting rid of quite some clutter and clothes I haven’t worn in years but are still taking up space. Especially now that we moved to such a small house, I get more and more Marikondo-esque fits where I just want to throw out everything.

I am very bad at just throwing out things knowing they can be re-used in some way. I always donate my clothes to friends and charity shops and whenever I can, I repurpose materials.

Lately I have been getting more and more into succulents (as has the rest of the world in 2016 according to my Instagram!)and I’ve been trying to propagate some of them. Since we don’t have a lot of space to put these various nursery projects of mine and James doesn’t like me cluttering up the few window sills we do have, I needed a space saving solution. I’ve seen these beautiful retro scandi hanging shelves come by on pinterest, Etsy and instagram. Some of them made with metal, ribbon or old belts. The first bin bag for charity I managed to fill up happened to have a few belts in it and so I decided to give it a try today.

The pictures are of a somewhat poor quality, sorry about that. I didn’t start the project until late in the day and so the daylight was gone.

shelf scandinavian succulent

STEP 1: find your shelf.

This project is dead simple, especially if you already happen to have a bit of wood lying around to use as the actual shelf. We always have bits of wood everywhere in the house, so I didn’t have to go out and buy or cut any. I used a 18 mm plywood for my shelf.

STEP 2: Cut your belt to size.

The belt I chose was pretty wide and so I decided I would cut it into two elegant slim halves. I started cutting my belt with scissors and I should have known that was a bad idea. See, the thing is, I am a horrible cutter. This is what my half of the belt looked like after I attacked it with my scissor skills.

img_9649I then decided to use a knife. Much better plan. Decide on your own cutting device, scissors are probably the fastest and easiest way. By the way, I didn’t measure anything as I just laid the two pieces on top of each other to make sure they were exactly the same length.

STEP 3: drill holes in the belt pieces.

If you’re really lazy like I am, just fold your two pieces of belt together and lay all four layers on top of each other so you only have to drill once. I suppose you could also pierce the belt with a pick of some sort but since you need a drill to make a hole in the wall to hang the thing anyway, drilling is the fastest and most accurate way.
drill hole leather belt scandi

STEP 4: Find a screw and little washer.

The washer (little flat ring) is optional, but I just think it looks nicer. Remember, the nicest type of screw to use is a mushroom head screw, like the ones I used for my photograph on forex project. Mushroom head screws stay on top of the surface, so they don’t wiggle themselves into the material.

washer and screw




washer screw belt leather

I think it just looks so much slicker with that washer

STEP 5: find a wall plug, measure with level,drill holes in wall, hammer wall plug in.

STEP 6: Screw both belt loops into the wall

belt hanging wall leather washer loop

STEP 7: place your shelf in the hanging loops and.. voila!

Shelf’s your uncle! (for you non native Brit readers: it’s a British word joke)


shelf scandinavian wall wood

shelf hanging leather belt succulent planter shelf succulent scandinavian planter shelf leather leather hanging shelf


DIY Bloomingville wall feature replica

Both my partner and me are both fans of ‘the imperfect’; we like reclaimed wood, scuffed edges, furniture pieces with a bit a history and character. The strange thing about doing up a wonky, dirty house I guess is the fact that once you finally get to the stage where everything is clean, straight and white, you want to KEEP it clean, straight and white! It’s safe to say this whole process has really influenced our interior design preferences.

Therefore, with the amazing geo patterned Eyffinger wall paper we chose for the bedroom (the grey version) an angular, calculated trend in the room was set.

geo wallpaper

copyright / eijffinger wallpaper

About a year ago we made a road trip to Scandinavia and, not that I wasn’t aware of it before, but I REALLY REALLY like Scandinavian design. One brand I have liked for a while now is Bloomingville. Their products have mid range prices, making them only affordable (to me at least) when they’re on sale. I have been drooling over their wall features for a while now, they have several geometrically shaped wooden displays in their collection.

screen-shot-2016-10-10-at-11-06-43 screen-shot-2016-10-10-at-11-18-52screen-shot-2016-10-10-at-11-19-05I wasn’t willing to pay the asking price for them though and decided to try and make one myself. A little bit cheeky, I decided to order a Bloomingville hexagonal shelf from an online shop with a generous return period intending to have a better look upclose before returning it. Copy cat? Ehm, let’s call it ‘making a replica’.

When the shelf arrived, it complimented the wallpaper very nicely, as I expected. But I was surprised by the quality of the wood. It weighed nearly nothing and it was very soft, making it very prone to any kind of damage. It was so not worth the asking price of 150 Euro!



What I also didn’t like was the extra bit of wood that you had to use to attach it to the wall. Such a shame to mess up the simplicity of the honeycomb shape like that. I was sure I could do it better!

The process really was dead simple.

  • I measured the Bloomingville shelf, as I liked its size, and cut six pieces of 18mm plywood to the same length. Bear in mind, these days, lots of DIY shops offer (often free) woodcutting service. So if you’re not too tool-savvy yourself, try and go to your local DIY shop to ask for help.
  • I cut the pieces off at a 30 degree angle (180 divided by 6, because 6 shelves, is 30)
  • I used PVA glue to glue the pieces together. This PVA had a drying time of about 20 minutes, which gave me plenty of time to check that the diagonals of the hexagon all measured the same length, because that’s the way to check if a hexagon is even. Clamping a hexagon is nearly impossible, so I used masking tape to tightly bond the edges together, like this:
    img_8244 I then gave it some extra pull by taping it all the way across, which, to be honest, was probably completely useless.img_8241

After the project was dry, I started fiddling around with the metal hanging slots I had lying around, I usually use them for the wooden lights I sell on Etsy. There are two different types of hanging slots. Obviously it’s nice to attach a keyhole plate completely flush or countersunk into the wood, but I always find it a lot of hassle to drill or router into the wood. PLUS… the plywood is too thin to drill a hole the size of a screw-head into, it would probably tear the wood. So I chose to use the lazy keyhole slot plate (see image below) and the fact that there’s about a millimetre of space between the wall and the shelf is hardly noticeable.keyhole-slots

Obviously because of the shape of the wall shelf, placing the slots vertically isn’t an option. I therefore chose to attach them on opposite sides of the hexagon and attaching them making a clockwise rotary movement. Make sure to use the proper drill bits in the wall, good wall plugs and check that the heads of your screws are compatible with the keyhole slots.


I was indecisive about how and what height I wanted to add shelves, so I added the slot plates and took a break to admire the shelfless version…
a very minimal hexagonal shelf

The last step of the process: adding a shelf/ shelves. I decided to go for one shelf which I placed at around two thirds of the height. I didn’t do any accurate measuring, I guessed the length, cut off another bit of plywood and cut the ends at a 30 degree angle again.

And here’s the result…

img_8322 img_8314hexagon-finished


I’m very happy about the result! It’s a nice little feature on our bedroom wall; not too invasive, stylish, scandi-style and customisable. Just how I like it.

Total cost of project: 8 Euro


Coat rack made with reclaimed materials

It happens often to me. I find a certain object or material and my mind starts running off. When it boomerangs back to me it shows me a completely new design based on that one little thing I found.


This is exactly what happened in the charity shop the other day. I always rummage through their ‘old metal and tool section’ (a.k.a. that box with rusty shit in it). I am usually on the prowl for old hooks and brackets to use on coat racks and lamps and such. I found something much cooler this time, a series of black, flaky, old handrail brackets.


I  was still looking to make something for my hallway. I have so many wintercoats, scarves and bulky knitwear and at the moments I have those metal IKEA  hook thingies hanging on every door in my house. I’ve been wanting to make a proper coat rack  for ages and these little beauties gave me exactly what I needed: they’re quirky enough to go with my rustic handmade style and long enough to hang more than just one coat on.

I have a lot of beautiful vintage hooks but to be honest, they’re not all big enough to hold my outdoorwear collection.


So here’s what I made with my banister support/ handrail bracket turned coat hooks!


Needless to say, I removed most of my coats because I wanted the picture to look Pinterest Instagram pretty. I know, I’m so fake.

IMG_5994 I’m not too happy about the colour of the screws I picked out, I might give them a touch of black paint actually.IMG_5995

How I made it:

I used some good ol’ scaffolding wood leftovers from one of my boyfriend’s projects, I glued and clamped them all together. I left those metal things on, I really like their industrial vibe.  I then stole a longer bit of wood, it wasn’t actually left over I think, I glued and screwed it and made it into a shallow shelf. Perfect for hats and scarves and such. I used two visible brackets to attach the rack to the wall, I could have gone for something a bit more subtle but my other brackets were finished and I figured since it’s so high up you won’t ever really see them unless you try.IMG_6003 IMG_6005IMG_6004
IMG_6006 IMG_6000IMG_6007

I’m happy with my result! And it all started with that tiny black flaky bit of inspiration.

Do something different with your family photos: tutorial reclaimed wooden window type frame


In my never-ending quest for finding different, fun and creative ways to integrate photography in my interior, I’d like to share a recent project with you.

I’m a sucker for reclaimed wood, you literally find it everywhere in my house (even in my toilet!).  I love combining a rough reclaimed wooden surface with something unexpected; shiny, slick or new.

For this family photo display project I was preparing for a friend who has four kids I did just that: I combined the old and the new… the rastic and the plustic (my word joke didn’t come across, did it?). I wanted to make sort of a window frame, very three dimensional and chunky. But nothing too difficult, I didn’t want to have to router or chisel into the wood or slot the forex into anything. So I decided to just simply glue and screw a frame ON TOP of a big print.

In the array of ways to display large images without breaking the bank, these are my two favourites:

1: I combine multiple images in one big file in photoshop (think A1 or A2).  I leave it on my computer and whenever I come across a good offer or discount code for an online photo printing service I send the file off to be printed on the biggest size poster available. Once I receive them, I cut all the individual images out with my stanley knife and cutting mat and then I mount them onto a nice sturdy sheet of mdf. I find this is an amazing way to create huge artworks / photographs that look like gallery pieces, but at a fraction of the price you’d expect. When I get round to my next print-and-mount-session I’ll share a tutorial with you, promise!

2: The magic word is….forex print. What is forex, you might ask? Well, let me briefly explain. Forex is a relatively low cost type of hard foam plate, it usually consists of three layers: two hard outside backings and a foamy interior, sort of like a sandwich. Forex is ultra light weight and strong, it’s a material which is used a lot in the advertising/display/signs industry. It’s perfect to print high quality photographs on, it’s durable and scratch proof enough to use outdoors, but so light you can hang it on virtually any surface. And that is a big advantage, especially if you like BIG art on the wall. If you use my earlier mentioned photo mounting option,  anything larger than 80cm by 80cm can turn into a seriously heavy display! If you have the right tools and wall plugs, then, by all means, go for it. But if you don’t, stick with the forex! Considering this particular photo display was going to be 100cm by 100cm AND I was using chunky wood to make a frame window; I went with the forex!

So here is my forex print as it arrived to my house. Even though forex is sturdy, my studio is always dirty and messy, so I used some fabric to protect it anyway.



-a big photo printed onto forex

-7 bits of wood: four for the outer frame, one long bit in the middle, vertically, and two shorter bits to go across horizontally.

-wood glue / pva glue

-acrylic paint

-bunch of screws with a mushroom head


-drill/ screwdriver bit

-very thin drill bit

In case you want to hang the piece on the wall:

-2 D-hooks

-a bit of string or metalwire

STEP 1: decide your type of wooden frame and make it easy on yourself by drawing the frame on top of your photo before ordering your print.


Before combining my four photos in a photoshop file, I decided on the type of wood I wanted to use to  ‘window frame’ this foursome with. I went for reclaimed scaffold wood, nice and weathered and, grey, yet straight enough for me to easily cut four pieces to size. Why do you need to decide this in advance? Because to make it easier on myself I added the lines where I was going to add the wood on the photo, and I made them slightly smaller because I didn’t want them to peep out from underneath the wood. The width of the wood strips was 3cm, so I made 2.5 cm lines. It’s all in the preparation, people!

STEP 2: cut the pieces for your wooden frame to size.

I cut the pieces so they only had one cut side, which I was obviously going to hide/ glue onto the forex surface. I also cut the end s into 45 degree angles. Honestly, cutting angles in wood is NOT  as difficult as you might think, just give it a good practice before you start on the real thing. It’s always nice to feel confident in what you do and practice  always makes me more confident.

Right, next step.

STEP 3: Paint the edges of the forex board.

Since I was going to make a frame to go ON TOP of the forex board, the edges of the forex would remain visible. I didn’t like the thought of that and so I decided to simply paint the edges. With some acrylic colour I mixed up a shade that resembled the colour of the wood. At first, I was insecure whether the forex would be too ‘plasticy’ to paint on to, but I didn’t have any trouble.





Comparing the painted edge colour to the colour of the wood… emmm ..close enough for me.IMG_1382

STEP 4: A bit of puzzling to see which bit goes where. To be honest.. I left the three inside pieces a bit longer, just in case I messed up any of my measurements. You can always cut OFF, and never cut ON.IMG_1384 IMG_1385 IMG_1386

Step 5: scratch/scour/assault the cut/ NON SHOWING side of the wood.


Use a knife, use a screw, use your nail, as long as you make sure the surface is prepped for the glue. I am a firm believer that scratching before glueing really helps the two components to bond properly.

STEP 6: Glue the four outer pieces onto the board.


IMPORTANT: glue a THIN line towards the OUTSIDE of the wooden strips. You don’t want glue to seep through on top of your photograph. If it does, it’s not the end of the world as a wet finger/ cloth can get rid of the glue when it’s still wet. But better to avoid it. The good thing about reclaimed wood is that things don’t have to be too precise and clean, you can wiggle a bit to see which bits connect nicely. And if at this stage you discover you haven’t measured properly, don’t worry about it, make the frame stick out over the edge a little bit. hey, that might even save you from having to paint the forex edge all together!

STEP 7: place something heavy on top of the wooden strips, let glue dry for 15 mins and them turn the piece over.

STEP 8: Pre-drill holes for screws.

Obviously measure the width of your wooden bits, and the distance you want your screws to go from the edge of the frame. I’m quite the lazy maker usually, but I really recommend pre drilling for the screws. Forex has a porous and soft base and you don’t want to risk anything going wrong in the process of screwing it onto wood. Pre-drilling eliminates that risk.
IMG_1391STEP 9: screw two screws into each of the four outer corners, securing the forex board to the wood.


IMPORTANT: use mushroom headed screws. They’re the kind of screws that have a head that’s round and domed but a bottom that’s FLAT. Why, you might wonder? Well, since the forex is soft on the inside, a standard type screwhead would pull the forex with it and will try to force it to go into the wood. We don’t want that.IMG_1387



Tadaah.. Two screws securing the forex board into the reclaimed wood.IMG_1392

Make sure to keep checking if the wooden bits are aligned and close to the edge during screwing, the easiest way to do this is to place one finger along the edge.

STEP 10: Now screw one screw in the middle of each side.




STEP 11: Turn over and cut the last three bits of wood to size.IMG_1386 STEP 11: repeat the scouring, glueing, waiting and then turn the piece over.

So Now we’re almost finished. Pre drill and screw another four screws to the inside wooden bits the same way as you have done earlier with the outer bits.

STEP 12: Attach the D hooks to the back of the frame. PRE DRILL and SCREW. Attach string or metal wire.

I usually attach my hanging hooks something like 10 cm from the top of an artwork, just so you have a bit of space to play with. You never know in advance how much a certain type of string is going to give, or how heavy the piece is. It saves you having to cut the string, knot the string and then recut the string every time.


So here we go.. that’s it.IMG_1399 IMG_1397 IMG_1398

And this is how it looks in its new home! I haven’t seen it up on the wall yet, I took this photo when I went by to drop it off. I absolutely love the way the piece looks in its new surroundings, what a gorgeous wall colour!!! Combination with the black and white photo, old wood… stunning!